Fibres / Textiles Future
Fibres / Textiles Future study EcoJacket Tough and biodegradable thanks to innovative spinning technology By: Oliver Dorn Innovation Product Catalyst Peppermint Group Berlin, Germany A robust, extremely durable material and still biodegradable when it has reached the end of its product life? This was the challenge taken up by the textile engineers of the Advanced Materials Competence Center (AMCC) from the Peppermint Group, Berlin. They worked with recycling experts to conduct a future study using their EcoJacket to examine how biopolymers can be used in the textile industry in the future, which technologies are needed, and the ways in which these materials can be reintroduced into the natural cycle. The main focus here is on combining two previously irreconcilable worlds: durability and recyclability. The Peppermint Group has developed a yarn process that is not only of great interest to the fashion conscious and environmentally aware consumer, but also to the ‘sharing economy’. Leasing furniture instead of repeatedly buying new items only works if the upholstery fabric, for example, doesn’t wear through after just a couple of months. A prerequisite for the economic feasibility of such business models are durable textiles that can withstand as many care cycles as possible. This saves on raw materials and reduces the carbon footprint. Until now this has been done by mixing predominantly petrochemical-based synthetic fibres with natural materials. The Peppermint Group is now achieving the same durability effect using biogenic materials. Bioplastics can contribute to restoring the carbon cycle balance and also offer an extremely promising starting point for a post-fossil fuel future. This absorbed carbon is used to produce biogenic materials and is released again after use. In order to use these innovative raw materials to meet the high demands of the rented textile industry, biogenic materials are combined with an innovative spinning process. The Group’s subsidiary, ZKS Zwickauer Kammgarn GmbH, uses the patented TRIWITEX ® spinning method to spin this special yarn from a wide variety of materials. This produces significantly improved usage properties in all material blends in comparison to conventional spinning methods. The yarn’s characteristic features are a result of the positioning of fine filaments. The potential offered by this spinning technology is particularly noticeable in knitwear garments. While garments knitted from traditional yarn are highly susceptible to pilling, this is hardly noticeable in Triwitex quality yarns. When comparing the two qualities, this added value becomes very clear: thanks to the Triwitex spinning method, natural fibre, bioplastic blends also reach performance levels that have so far only been achieved with petrochemical polymers. Triwitex yarns made of wool and PBS (polybutylene succinate) show similar strengths to blends of the relative amounts of polyester and wool. Compared to conventionally spun materials, it was possible to increase their strength by a third. PBS is a biologically degradable, linear aliphatic polyester with extremely good mechanical properties. It is produced from two synthesis components: 1,4 succinic acid and 1,4 butanediol. Both source materials can be manufactured from fossil or from renewable resources. The first of these materials in particular, succinic acid, is extremely interesting and is listed, for example, by the US Department of Energy as one of the 12 ‘Top Value Added Chemicals from Biomass’. In its fibre form, however, PBS presents the textile industry with numerous challenges. Practically all process steps have to be adapted to the characteristics of this pioneering material. Just how this raw material can be used in durable textiles has been examined by the experts at the Advanced Materials Competence Center (AMCC) in the course of their future study. This study has shown that, with the right technology, bioplastics offer extremely promising possibilities for the use of sustainable and organic textiles in, up to now, classical application areas. The EcoJacket therefore shows a product concept that begins with manufacture and carries on, right through to the very last act of added value – disposal. www.triwitex.com | www.peppermint.biz 18 bioplastics MAGAZINE [05/20] Vol. 15
Fibres / Textiles Biobased UHMWPE fibres DSM announces partnership with SABIC and UPM Biofuels to create biobased Dyneema Royal DSM (Heerlen/Geleen, The Netherlands), SABIC (headquartered in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia and UPM Biofuels (Helsinki, Finland) announced a partnership earlier this year that will help to reduce the environmental footprint of Dyneema ® , the world’s strongest fiber made of UHMwPE (Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene). The collaboration will see Dyneema transition to biobased feedstock leveraging Sabic’s ground-breaking TRUCIRCLE solutions for certified renewable products. As such, DSM is delivering on its commitment to improve the sustainability footprint of Dyneema, moving towards a circular, biobased economy. In December 2019, DSM announced ambitious sustainability targets for its Dyneema high performance fibers. This new partnership represents an important step in realizing the goal of sourcing at least 60 % of its feedstock from biobased raw material by 2030. The transition to biobased feedstock will maintain the unique properties of Dyneema, enabling customers to adopt a more sustainable solution without compromising process efficiency or final product performance. The Dyneema biobased material will be carrying the globally recognized ISCC Plus certification and will not require re-qualification of downstream products. Biobased Dyneema has been available since April 2020. UPM Biofuels produces biobased feedstock UPM BioVerno from the residue of the pulping process. This is then processed by Sabic to make renewable ethylene under their Trucircle umbrella of solutions. Trucircle includes certified renewable products, specifically resins and chemicals from biobased feedstock that are not in competition with the food chain and help to reduce carbon emissions. By applying a mass balancing approach, DSM is then able to create biobased Dyneema fiber that delivers consistent durability and performance with a reduced environmental impact. The new partnership underlines DSM’s commitment to working closely with partners and suppliers to realize a (more) sustainable value chain. Wilfrid Gambade, President DSM Protective Materials: “By partnering with Sabic and UPM Biofuels, we are taking the next important step in our sustainability journey, and driving our industry’s transition from conventional to renewable resources. By improving the impact of our materials, together with our partners, we are helping to protect both people and the environment they live in. In this way, we are using our bright science to deliver brighter living.” Mark Vester, Circular Economy Leader at Sabic, said: “We firmly believe that true collaboration and innovation will drive positive change. With our Trucircle initiative, we are more committed than ever to closing the loop on used plastics in 2020. We are delighted to be partnering with DSM and UPM Biofuels as a further step towards transforming the value chain and creating a circular, transparent, and sustainable economy.” Juha Rainio, Sales and Marketing Director at UPM Biofuels: “We are committed to replacing fossil-based feedstocks with renewable ones. This collaboration with Sabic and DSM is an excellent example of a future beyond fossils, which is a key driver for UPM going forward.” Just recently, DSM announced that Dyneema is driving the performance of Team Sunweb’s protective cycling jerseys in the 2020 Tour de France. Together with its partners, Team Sunweb and Craft Sportswear, DSM has helped to deliver a jersey that, when combined with a protective baselayer, offers cyclists effective abrasion protection at speeds up to 60 km/h, while also reducing the severity of open wounds at even higher speeds. In this way, DSM underlines its commitment to protect people and the environment they live in. The continued partnership between DSM, Craft and Team Sunweb will not only provide innovative, lightweight solutions for cyclists, but also environmentally sustainable alternatives that contribute to a circular economy. “ www.dsm.com bioplastics MAGAZINE [05/20] Vol. 15 19
