Beauty & Healthcare PHA
Beauty & Healthcare PHA for cosmetics P HB (or more precisely P3HB) is a member of the polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) platform. Nafigate from Prague, Czech Republic produces P3HB from waste cooking oil. Hydal PHA for cosmetic applications and its material properties The development of Hydal PHA for cosmetic applications began in 2016. All cosmetic applications - peeling, shampoos, deodorants, UV filters - require modification of particle parameters. In particular, particle size, specific surface area and molecular weight. The required adjustments are made within the downstream process and after the treatment of the obtained powder. For cosmetic applications, Nafigate uses the PHA P3HB family. New legislative requirements for cosmetic materials The forthcoming new legislation for microplastics and chemicals in the EU opened a lot of room for PHB - thanks to its biodegradability, biocompatibility and non-toxicity. P3HB is listed directly in the standards as reference material for biodegradability. Hydal PHA replaces prohibited substances or potentially dangerous substances in cosmetic applications. That is why Nafigate uses it in high concentrations. Current legislation in Europe is a key driver of demand for new materials in cosmetics. As next year TiO 2 will be included by ECHA on the list of potential carcinogens – Nafigate is preparing special premixes for UV filters based on Hydal PHA and their patent without TiO 2 . They will be launched early next year. Consumer trends Consumer trends are another driver of demand for new materials. The natural cosmetics segment is growing by 9 % every year on a global scale. And this requires new materials. By: Lenka Mynarova, Member of The Board NAFIGATE Corporation Prague, Czech Republic That is why one of the segments Nafigate focuses on is a natural deodorant. P3HB plays the role of an active substance in natural deodorant - in a form where it acts as an odour absorber. The first natural deodorants based on Hydal PHA will be launched to the market later this year. Environmental impacts of the use of Hydal PHA in cosmetic materials Nafigate uses LCA to quantify the environmental impacts of Hydal PHA when replacing existing materials. The key application segment is UV filters - not only in cosmetics but also in paints. The graph from a processed LCA compares the environmental impact of the production and use of Hydal PHA and TiO 2 and ZnO: Results of the comparison of the environmental impacts of mineral UV filters (TiO 2 , ZnO) and biopolymer P3HB production using the LCA method. The results of the impact category indicators demonstrate a clear benefit of PHB made from used cooking oil for the environment. A comparison of the results of the selected impact categories shows big differences in the environmental impacts of the production of particu-lar substances. The production of PHB biopolymer has no negative environmental impact because it is made from waste and on the principles of Zero Waste Manufacturing (waste from the production is recycled). The production of mineral substances harms the environ-ment in all impact categories. Summary New materials for cosmetics based on Hydal PHA bring great benefits and create a great opportunity. They meet both legislative requirements and consumer expectations and have a clear and quantified positive impact on the environment. www.nafigate.com Graph 1: Results of the comparison of the environmental impacts of mineral UV filters (TiO2, ZnO) and biopolymer P3HB production using the LCA method. 100,00 — PHB TiO2 chloride method TiO2 sulphate method ZnO Negative impact 80,00 — 60,00 — 40,00 — 20,00 — % 0,00 — -20,00 — Positive impact -40,00 — -60,00 — -80,00 — -100,00 — Metal depletion Fossil depletion Climate change Ozone depletion Human toxicity Freshwater ecotoxicity Marine ecotoxicity Terrestrial ecotoxicity Methodology: ReCipe Midpoint (E) V1.13 / Europe Recipe E Comparing 1 kg Hydal PHB; 1 kg Titanum dioxide, chloride process; Titanum dioxide, sulphate process; 1 kg Zinc oxide Photochemical oxidant formation Acidification Freshwater eutrophication 26 bioplastics MAGAZINE [04/20] Vol. 15
Beauty & Healthcare Photo: native P3HB particles Native P3HB particles Discover the potential of Susterra ® propanediol for bio-based performance polymers High-performing, bio-based Susterra ® propanediol is an effective building block in a wide range of performance polymer applications: • PU & TPU Elastomers and Foams • UPR Resins • PUD Coatings • Solvent-free Synthetic Leather For use in footwear, apparel, sporting goods, furniture, automotive, and more. duponttateandlyle.com The DuPont Tate & Lyle plant, Loudon, Tennessee bioplastics MAGAZINE [04/20] Vol. 15 27
